The Drama: Goblin’s 900-Year-Old Recipe
There’s a moment in Goblin (도깨비) that captures something profound about food and immortality. Kim Shin—the 939-year-old goblin played by Gong Yoo—stands in his kitchen, preparing makguksu (buckwheat noodles) for Ji Eun-tak. It’s a simple dish, but when you’ve been cooking for nearly a millennium, even simple becomes extraordinary.
Goblin: The Lonely and Great God (쓸쓸하고 찬란하神 – 도깨비) aired on tvN from December 2016 to January 2017 and became one of the highest-rated Korean dramas in cable television history. Written by Kim Eun-sook, the drama tells the story of a Goryeo Dynasty general cursed to live forever, and the “goblin’s bride” who is destined to end his immortal life.
The drama is filled with beautiful moments around food—from the famous fried chicken scene to the intimate meals shared between characters. But the buckwheat noodle scenes stand out because they represent something the Goblin can offer that no one else can: centuries of perfected technique, made with care for someone he loves.
When an immortal being cooks for you, every ingredient carries the weight of 900 years of experience.
The History of Makguksu
What Is Makguksu?
Makguksu (막국수) literally translates to:
- Mak (막) = Roughly, carelessly
- Guksu (국수) = Noodles
Don’t let the name fool you—this “rough noodle” dish is anything but careless. The name refers to the rustic, quick preparation style that developed in Korea’s mountainous Gangwon Province, where buckwheat grows abundantly.
Origins: Mountain Food from Gangwon-do
Makguksu originated in Gangwon Province, the northeastern region of South Korea known for its mountains, ski resorts, and cold winters. The area’s climate is perfect for growing buckwheat (memil, 메밀), which thrives in cool temperatures and poor soil.
| Era | Development |
|---|---|
| Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392) | Buckwheat cultivation begins in mountain regions |
| Joseon Dynasty (1392-1897) | Makguksu becomes staple food for common people |
| 1950s-60s | Post-war popularity as affordable nutrition |
| 1970s-Present | Chuncheon becomes “makguksu capital” |
| 2016 | Goblin drama revives interest worldwide |
The dish was traditionally peasant food—quick to make, nutritious, and cheap. Buckwheat noodles could be made fresh without elaborate equipment, and the spicy bibim (mixed) style sauce used readily available ingredients.
Two Styles of Makguksu
Makguksu comes in two main variations:
Mul-makguksu (물막국수) - Cold noodles in icy broth
- Refreshing dongchimi (radish water kimchi) broth
- Perfect for hot summer days
- Similar to Pyongyang-style naengmyeon
Bibim-makguksu (비빔막국수) - Spicy mixed noodles
- Gochugaru (red pepper) based sauce
- Mixed with vegetables and sesame oil
- The style featured in Goblin
Why Buckwheat?
Buckwheat isn’t actually wheat—it’s a pseudocereal related to rhubarb. This makes it:
- Gluten-free (when 100% buckwheat)
- High in protein compared to other grains
- Rich in nutrients including rutin and magnesium
- Quick-cooking compared to wheat noodles
In traditional Korean medicine, buckwheat is considered “cooling” food, which is why makguksu is especially popular in summer.
The Recipe: Bibim Makguksu (Spicy Buckwheat Noodles)
Ingredients
For the Noodles
- Dried buckwheat noodles (메밀국수, 200g) Amazon →
- Ice water for rinsing
- Ice cubes for serving
For the Sauce
- Gochugaru (Korean red pepper flakes, 2 tablespoons) Amazon →
- Gochujang (Korean red pepper paste, 1 tablespoon) Amazon →
- 2 tablespoons soy sauce
- 1 tablespoon sugar
- 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
- Korean sesame oil (1 tablespoon) Amazon →
- 1 teaspoon minced garlic
- 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds
Toppings
- 1/2 cucumber, julienned
- 1/2 Asian pear or apple, julienned
- 1 hard-boiled egg, halved
- Kimchi (optional) Amazon →
- Pickled radish (단무지) Amazon →
- Toasted seaweed strips (김) Amazon →
Equipment
- Large pot for boiling
- Colander
- Mixing bowl
- Chopsticks for tossing
Video Tutorial
Video by 강쉪 KangchefTV - Korean chef’s simple buckwheat noodles
Instructions
Step 1: Make the Sauce Combine all sauce ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Taste and adjust—add more vinegar for tanginess, more sugar for sweetness, or more gochugaru for heat. Set aside to let flavors meld.
Step 2: Prepare Toppings Julienne the cucumber and pear. Slice the hard-boiled egg. Prepare any additional toppings. Keep cold until serving.
Step 3: Cook the Noodles Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add buckwheat noodles and cook according to package directions (usually 4-6 minutes). Buckwheat noodles cook faster than wheat noodles—don’t overcook.
Step 4: Rinse in Ice Water This is the crucial step. Drain the noodles immediately and rinse under cold running water, rubbing vigorously to remove starch. Then plunge into ice water and swish around. The noodles should be completely cold and slightly chewy.
Step 5: Drain and Toss Drain the noodles thoroughly—excess water will dilute the sauce. Transfer to a serving bowl and add the sauce. Toss well with chopsticks or your hands until every strand is coated.
Step 6: Assemble and Serve Arrange toppings over the dressed noodles. Add a few ice cubes to keep everything cold. Serve immediately with scissors for cutting noodles and extra sauce on the side.
FAQ
What’s the difference between makguksu and naengmyeon?
Both are cold buckwheat noodle dishes, but they differ in origin, noodle texture, and broth. Naengmyeon (from Pyongyang/Hamhung) uses thinner, chewier noodles often made with potato or sweet potato starch mixed in, and features a beef-based broth. Makguksu (from Gangwon Province) uses more rustic, purely buckwheat noodles and traditionally uses dongchimi (radish water kimchi) broth or spicy bibim sauce.
Can I use regular soba noodles?
Yes, Japanese soba noodles work as a substitute. However, Korean buckwheat noodles (memil guksu) tend to be slightly thicker and have a more rustic texture. If using soba, look for varieties with higher buckwheat content (80%+ is ideal).
Why do you rinse the noodles in ice water?
Three reasons: (1) It stops the cooking immediately, preventing mushiness. (2) It removes surface starch, which would make the noodles sticky. (3) It gives the noodles their signature chewy, bouncy texture that Koreans call ssalgeum (쫄깃).
Is makguksu served year-round?
Traditionally, it’s a summer dish—the cold noodles provide relief from Korea’s humid summers. However, in Chuncheon (the makguksu capital), restaurants serve it year-round. In Goblin, the dish is served in winter, showing that good food transcends seasons.
What if I can’t find gochugaru?
You can substitute with regular red pepper flakes, but the flavor will be different. Korean gochugaru has a unique sweet, slightly smoky flavor with moderate heat. Japanese togarashi or Aleppo pepper are closer substitutes than Italian red pepper flakes.
Did Gong Yoo really cook in the drama?
The cooking scenes featured both the actor and hand doubles for close-up shots. However, Gong Yoo reportedly practiced the cooking scenes to make them look authentic. The makguksu scenes were praised for their realistic presentation.
Can I make this vegan?
Yes. Skip the egg and use vegetable-based fish sauce or soy sauce only. The core dish of buckwheat noodles with spicy sauce is naturally vegan. Many traditional versions were indeed meat-free, as buckwheat was peasant food.
Make It Tonight
There’s poetry in the idea of a 900-year-old being preparing something as humble as buckwheat noodles. In Goblin, Kim Shin’s cooking represents not just skill, but accumulated love—centuries of memories folded into each dish he makes.
You might not have 900 years of experience, but you have something the Goblin doesn’t: the ability to make this dish for the first time, to discover it fresh, to create your own memories around a bowl of cold, spicy noodles.
오늘 밤, 도깨비 정주행하면서 직접 만든 막국수와 함께하는 건 어떨까요?
This post contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.
Hero image: “Memil guksu, Korean buckwheat noodles” by jetohs, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Part of our K-Drama Kitchen series—cooking the dishes that made us hungry while watching.
